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Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill Windsor - Restaurant review

PUBLISHED: 16:48 07 June 2016 | UPDATED: 15:40 07 November 2017

The Castle Hotel offers the perfect setting for this latest MPW venture

The Castle Hotel offers the perfect setting for this latest MPW venture

Maureen McLean

Sometimes we like to imagine the ‘nightmare party’ arriving at a restaurant for a gathering. All very nice people, of course.

But there’s granny who wants a ‘proper prawn cocktail’ while worrying whether there’s something ‘normal’ that grandfather will eat, the gluten-free aunty, the couple who would just love to dine on something they’ve not tried before, a vegetarian teenager and the obligatory child who’s decided it’s not food if it doesn’t look like a burger.

Tetchy as he might sometimes appear, Marco Pierre White relishes delighting such guests with his menus, preferably in a glamorous setting, including his new restaurant in The Castle Hotel, Windsor. Of course he’s also up for couples enjoying a date away from children, ladies who want a salad and the odd triple cooked chip to steal from a friend’s plate, and everyone in between. The rule is simply cooked classic dishes – often employing French techniques to prepare British favourites – using the best ingredients, such as meat from Campbell Brothers.

And it works. Portions sit nicely in the middle between falling off the plate and looking like they belong on a saucer. Marco knows his market. Add superb service, as you’d expect here, and a decent drinks selection, and everyone will go away happy, probably telling others about one or two special courses, and planning a return for something on the menu they’d not had a chance to try.

We did just that, with a party that included two burger fans, a steak fiend, fish obsessive and an MPW aficionado. Much time was spent cooing over each other’s choices. Prawn cocktail woman – yes, crispy lettuce and fresh, juicy hand-peeled prawns in a Marie Rose sauce – looked longingly at the dramatic goat’s cheese and beetroot salad with walnut dressing starter delivered to another diner.

It was the same story for mains ranging from swordfish steak à la Provençal to a whopping T-bone steak, and desserts such as a classic Knickerbocker Glory with raspberries. Marco follows the Perry-Smith rule that you only need three cheeses, but the vintage Stilton, mature Cheddar and ripe Brie offered are fine examples of their type.

You will want more – not on that night, but on a return visit.


Prices and opening hours

Around £25-£45pp for three courses, add more for sides and drinks. Open 5 to 10pm all week. Afternoon tea is also served from noon to 4pm in this lovely setting close to Windsor Castle, £10.50 for cream tea, full afternoon tea £19.95, or £26.95 with glass of champagne.

See mpwrestaurants.co.uk

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