Boulters Restaurant , Maidenhead
PUBLISHED: 16:20 24 March 2010 | UPDATED: 11:46 28 February 2013
Seriously good food and a fabulous view. Don't wait until high summer to try it out
When I booked a table at Boulters Restaurant on a chilly February evening I foresaw having to ask readers to use their imagination. Picture the sun sparkling on the river, a glass of chilled Chardonnay in hand or some such exhortation would be appropriate, I thought. But as it turned out I didnt have to call upon you to transport yourself ahead to high summer because even in the dead of a winters night the views are stupendous. Thanks to floodlighting, my husband Simon and I watched the river in full flood and could see into the woodland on the opposite bank. And if the views were special, even in winter, so, indeed was the menu.
Terrine of Skate, Capers and Sauce Gribiche, Warm Stuffed English Quail, Prineau dAgen, Sauce Ravigote not your normal brasserie fare, we thought. As you might expect the prices are a little above the normal, too, but the discerning diners of Berkshire are always happy to pay for quality and the dining room was packed.
My unusual starter of Salad of Confit of Salt Marsh Lamb Shoulder, consisted of melt-in-the mouth morsels of lamb served with oregano and garlic crisps gambolling happily among the freshest of pea leaves.
Simons Rissotto of Butternut Squash came with parmesan and sage and was also good the perfect consistency and full of flavour.
Next my pan-fried Cornish Bream, with Dauphinoise Potatoes, was a work of art and it tasted as good as it looked. Sea-fresh fish, tender baby beetroot and a dollop of creamy Vermouth sauce was counterpointed with sweet red chillies.
Simons Suffolk Port Fillet, caramelised Apple, Pomme Puree and Calvados Jus was one of the more traditional offerings on the menu, but he was more than content.
Puddings, too, were exemplary. My Caramel Chocolate Mousse, Malted Milk Ice Cream and Almond cassonade had to be my fantasy dessert, while Simons Sticky Toffee Souffle had warm sauce drizzled inside and was served with Earl Grey Ice Cream.
Chef Dan Woodhouse earned his culinary spurs with Roux Fine Dining, and Tom Aikens, but even he could not have organised the floor show. As we were eating dessert we saw a muntjack deer on the opposite bank, followed soon after by another. It was a magical way to round off a very special evening, so dont wait until high summer to visit this exceptional restaurant.
Boulters Restaurant, Maidenhead. Tel: 01628 621 291.