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Coworth Park Hotel in Ascot: Restaurant review

PUBLISHED: 15:48 23 April 2018 | UPDATED: 15:48 23 April 2018

Caviar Tart with Cornish Crab, Yuzu and Cucumber

Caviar Tart with Cornish Crab, Yuzu and Cucumber

Archant

Adam Smith is creating some extraordinary dishes at Coworth Park so Maureen McLean visited to experience the little luxuries the chef himself likes to enjoy

As your car purrs along the drive of Coworth Park in Ascot you already know you are in for a treat. Set in 240 acres of parkland and yet a stone’s throw from London, this is a spot where can walk in the beautiful grounds, stay in five star luxury, enjoy a spa break and even perhaps try out a spot of polo. That’s bound to work up an appetite for lunch or dinner in one of the stunning restaurants. So far from the coast, but even with all these delights I was about to discover some very special ‘fruits of the sea’, dining in the Mansion House Restaurant Coworth Park, with its coveted Michelin star of excellence.

It’s clear that Executive Chef Adam smith eats, sleeps and breathes his passion for all things culinary.

“We want to put the Restaurant Coworth Park on the world map and get the food to be as amazing and as beautiful as the restaurant,” he says. “We have many regular British and international guests. If our guests are staying for two or three nights we’ll make sure we vary their menus as much as possible. The creation of our dishes is often inspired by the actual ingredients. They are visually modern, however, technically not so simple.”

And he admits to enjoying the odd taste of luxury himself: “I cook food that I really like to eat that’s grand and luxurious. I have expensive tastes and always like to work with the very best of ingredients! We have our own modern British style with classic French cooking.”

To put this to the test Adam and his team prepared for me what can only be described as a veritable fish banquet tasting menu. I also enjoyed a warm welcome and some outstanding service from sommelier Michael Fiducia, Junior Assistant Manager Taylor Fisher and Food & Beverage Consultant Laura Godwin.

With views over the terrace and beautiful gardens to enjoy, the experience began with some dinky little treats of scallop Tart, Miso Fudge and smoked Cod’s Roe & seaweed. I loved the taste of the sea from the dishes – it really did make me visualise a dreamy day on the beach.

Next to try was Adam’s signature dish, a delectable Caviar Tart with Cornish Crab, Yuzu and Cucumber followed by Copper Marans Egg Yolk with smoked Potato, Kohlrabi and Truffle.

Langoustines with Fermented Turnip, Bitter Lemon and Lovage were outstanding, but there was more to come with splendid John Dory with black garlic, then onto the very different flavours of steamed Turbot with a champagne sauce. It was then time to cleanse my palette with a miniature Granny smith Apple sorbet before an exotic dessert. The fish dishes were light, delicate and an explosion of ocean tastes.

Adam is always innovating in the kitchen and he’s also very much aware of issues such as looking at how to reduce the amount of plastic in the kitchens as well as cutting food waste.

The cost of dining at Restaurant Coworth Park ranges from £95 per person for the tasting menu for lunch or dinner, £75 for a la carte, or there’s a Best of British menu that’s £50 for dinner or £30 for a two course lunch.

Adam also hosts a behind the scenes tour from time to time where you can chat to him in the kitchen whilst enjoying a glass of bubbly and canapés.

www.dorchestercollection.com

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Eating out in Berkshire - Best restaurants - Whether you’re looking for fine dining, pub food, a romantic meal for 2 or a taste of something from further afield, eating out in Berkshire really has something for everyone. Here’s our guide to the best local restaurants and pubs

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