Olivier's Restaurant - Woburn, review
PUBLISHED: 13:34 24 March 2010 | UPDATED: 16:56 20 February 2013
Terry Daniels revisited The Inn at Woburn after many years' absence and found Olivier's Restaurant to be excellent in every way...
Terry Daniels revisited The Inn at Woburn after many years absence and found Oliviers Restaurant to be excellent in every way.
I fondly recall doing a food review back in the 1990s, when The Inn at Woburn was known as The Bedford Arms, so to say I jumped at the chance to revisit the newly-refurbished hotel and restaurant, is an understatement.
Part of the Woburn estate and home to the 4th Duke of Bedford, the inn has been welcoming guests for nearly three centuries. Now called Oliviers, the name wasnt the only thing that had changed since our last visit to the restaurant. The hotel, itself has been recently renovated and refurbished to incorporate modern comforts with character and charm, but we were there for the food.
The two AA Rosettes dining room is now under the charge of chef Olivier Bertho - hence the name - and his menu is a mix of contemporary English and continental cuisine.
My husband Kevin opted for Smoked Pigeon Breast with Petits Pois served with shallot vinegar and button foie gras (7.05) and I chose Steamed Selection of Dumplings with Kecap Manis. These were chicken and vegetable dumplings with an oriental sauce (7.05). Steamed to perfection, I suspected that Oliviers sous chef Jason Wong could have had a hand in this masterfully good Far Eastern dish.
For my main course, I chose Medley of Fruits de Mer Poached in Lobster Bisque served with traditional rouille and garlic crote (15.75). This included Sea Bass, Red Mullet, a few fresh mussels and clams which were all beautifully fresh and the bisque was pure heaven.
We were both adamant that one of us at least would choose something local to the estate, so Kevin decided on Loin of Woburn Venison with Port and Cranberry Sauce accompanied with braised red cabbage, gratin dauphinois and courgette (18.05.) Without doubt, Kevin said it was the most flavoursome and tender he had ever enjoyed, and the sauce complemented the dish very well.
To round off I opted for the Selection of British and Continental Cheeses, which included a delicious smoked cheddar, a farmhouse cheddar, a Celtic blue and a goats cheese with grape, celery, chefs own piccalilli and savoury biscuits served with a glass (50ml) of Grahams Late Bottle Vintage Port 2003 (12). Kevin simply had to have his favourite, Apple and Cinnamon Cheesecake, served with rhubarb syrup (7.05.) It tickled us both when his plate arrived with enjoy x inscribed on the edge in pink icing. What a lovely touch and a great ending to a perfect meal.
Oliviers Restaurant at The Inn at Woburn,
Tel: 01525 290441,